Discovering the World Sans Valise: Antarctica (5)

Next stops were Danco island and Damoy Point. Danco island is a 2 km long island lying in the southern part of the Errera channel. Like Neko harbour, Danco island is populated with Gentoo penguins. The scenery was again enchanting and the silence wonderful to experience. Damoy Point is the northern entrance to the harbour of Port Lockroy on the western side of Wiencke island. Port Lockroy hosts a UK station. Three women (rotating each year) are living on the island by themselves for four months (Nov-Feb). They have an ecology tour and run the most southern UK post office. We had a chance to send a few post cards from there :)). They come on board of large ships to take a shower once or twice a week....no running water and no electricity in the cabin. They have gas for cooking. It is for sure an experience of isolation. They seemed to love it.

As we were cruising through Antarctica, it was interesting to inquire about the effect of global warming on the Antarctic Peninsula. The answer (hopefully correct) was that there was not a striking effect seen as yet, at least not as striking as the one seen in Patagonia on all the glaciers.

We learned that whales go to Antarctica to feed on krill (the main source of food for whales and penguins) for four months of the year. They then migrate up north and since food is sparse there, they live on their reserves for the remaining eight months of the year. We saw only humpback whales.

We also learned that penguin's life is really hard in Antarctica. They have to face the harsh weather, having no place to hide. No heater available. Incubating the eggs (while on land) is a 24 hour job since the eggs cannot get cold. It is actually the male that holds the egg in between his legs and rolls it regularly so it never gets cold on one side. The female is feeding in the ocean during the incubation period and comes back just when the egg hatches. Hard to believe this impeccable timing. The incubation period lasts for up to 2 months and the male does not eat during this time. If you have not seen "The march of the penguins" documentary yet, we highly recommend you to watch it. The other major challenge for penguins is to protect their eggs and chicks from their predator, the skuas. Skuas are birds that fly over the penguins colonies all the time in search for an opportunity to steal an egg or a chick. Sad for these penguins to lose their little loved ones.