Wednesday, July 27, 2016

A few quotes found along the way...


A few quotes from Norway





And finally one from Dublin


The Lofoten Islands: Hiking trips and village of A- Still BEAU-TI-FUL

Still enjoying the Lofoten island of Moskenesoya, the most western island in the strech of Lofoten islands. Hiking here is one of the main attraction. A combination of steep mountains and lakes that reminds us of Scotland plus the steepness and minus the sheep. We braved to attempt two long hikes, one from Sorvagen to the Munkebu hut, the other from A (yes this is the name of the fishing village of the very end of route E10) to Stokkvika (all indicated on the map below). For the second hike which is extremely long as a round trip hike, we stopped at the top of the mountain, got the view on Stokkvika beach on one side and the village of A with its lake on the other side and turned around at this point.
A is very pittoresque and friendly. In the evening, we went to the covered area where fishermen clean and filet the fish they caught that day. Got a chance to connect with the fishermen who were very opened to discussing their experience. Lots of pride for what they catch. Three large halibuts were hang there for a while...the overall best catch of the day. Most other fishermen caught cod, we also saw one salmon but it is a rare catch. On the pictures, you will see halibut (the hanging ones) and cod mostly. We learned that in fact most fishermen are from abroad coming to spend one week on the island to go fishing night and day with fish clean up and a shower in between each trip. The local fishermen cannot do it with their 15 m boats any longer. Their small businesses on 15 m boat has been replaced by larger businesses on 40 m boats  operated by larger companies. A sad reality. Our Airbnb host used to be a fisherman. He is not complaining about his new activity (in comparison to the previous one).
We connected with a fisherman from Germany who kindly gave us some cod. Did not even have to use my negotiating skills to get it! An act of pure kindness that we keep witnessing as we travel along. We should NOT forget that MOST PEOPLE on this planet are VERY KIND. Made a fish soup out a the cod and it was delicious.
Our host Roy (another kind fellow) had to go to Oslo to attend a Bruce Springsteen concert! He left us his house with 4 bedrooms.....another super Airbnb situation!

Back to our hikes. Definitively quite difficult due to the steepness and the muddy wet terrain around the lakes. Yesterday our feet were wet from the beginning to the end of the hike but we still had a great time....probably thanks to our wonderful Smartwool socks (I promise that I am not getting paid each time I mention the word Smartwool). The pictures will tell it all, just take a few minutes to look at them. Again sometimes we feel that the scenery is unreal, too beautiful to be true, are we dreaming it? We also reflect on the new concept (for us) of "permanent vacation". Is it real?


The first hike












Apres l'effort, le reconfort! Allez, mangeons the catch of the day...delicious halibut (fletan) :))



Cod drying - la morue seche



You may wonder, as we did, how the fish heads are being used. We suspected they may be grinded up and used as fertilizer. Nice concept...take from the ocean, give back to the earth. Well not quite. The body of the fish are dried and sent to Italy, Spain and Portugal to be used in the Bacalao dish, the heads go to Nigeria where they are boiled with peanuts and hot red pepper to make a special Nigerian dish. Hopefully Nigerians need to pay only for the transportation! Not sure how to feel about the fact 
that they get only the heads.







Only one bakery in A, but a good one famous for its freshly baked buns, delicious for breakfast!



And now the fish...





The second hike
 

Thought that we could play "Where is Waldo" on each picture...just look for the straw hat!


 Have you found it yet?


And on that one?



After a steep climb, we reached the top...and this is the view from up there (next 3 pictures)



No, don't tell me you found it again!






And to finish on a high note, a SELFIE!



Monday, July 25, 2016

The Lofoten Islands: Reine-Bunes Beach-Hamnoy - BEAU-TI-FUL!

A PARADISE found: the Lofoten islands!

We flew from Bergen to Bodo on Wideroe (never experienced this company before). Small plane, no battery at the beginning (?). Not a good start but the problem was resolved. Immediately took a ferry from Bodo to Moskenes located on the very West part of the Lofoten islands. Pleasant trip. No bouncing, nice view, nice approach to the Lofoten. Arrived in Moskenes, walked to our Airbnb located in Sorvagen, about 1.6 km from Moskenes.
Grateful to have to carry only 20 pounds + a little extra in the second small backpack. One in the back, one in the front, and my two hands are free...way to go! By the way, these Osprey backpacks are AWESOME, I have not had a back problem yet. Merci BMS colleagues for such an amazing and practical gift :)) I also need to comment on my Smartwool socks (also a thoughtful gift from colleagues). Quality, quality....so soft and comfortable.

Next day, we took the bus to Reine (5 kms away). This little fishing village deserves its name (Reine = Queen in French). The most beautiful village we have seen so far. Don't miss looking at the pictures, it is unreal. You turn your head in any directions and you witness beauty and serenity; a real pleasure for the eye ...and the soul. We were there early before anyone else and had the village for ourselves. We then took a ferry to Vinstad to hike to Bunes beach (about 2 hours round trip). The fog was moving randomly forming patterns and shapes. It shows up in between mountains, low and dissapears as fast as it appeared. Very unusual, especially for Californians who seldomly see clouds.

We were back in Reine by 4 pm and took the bus to the little nearby village of Hamnoy. Also very nice to see at the end of the day. Luminosity was interesting. In these villages, many "rorbuers" (fishermen cabins) are now rented by vacationers.

All in all, another great day. So grateful to have the opportunity to witness such beauty.