Still enjoying the Lofoten island of Moskenesoya, the most western island in the strech of Lofoten islands. Hiking here is one of the main attraction. A combination of steep mountains and lakes that reminds us of Scotland plus the steepness and minus the sheep. We braved to attempt two long hikes, one from Sorvagen to the Munkebu hut, the other from A (yes this is the name of the fishing village of the very end of route E10) to Stokkvika (all indicated on the map below). For the second hike which is extremely long as a round trip hike, we stopped at the top of the mountain, got the view on Stokkvika beach on one side and the village of A with its lake on the other side and turned around at this point.
A is very pittoresque and friendly. In the evening, we went to the covered area where fishermen clean and filet the fish they caught that day. Got a chance to connect with the fishermen who were very opened to discussing their experience. Lots of pride for what they catch. Three large halibuts were hang there for a while...the overall best catch of the day. Most other fishermen caught cod, we also saw one salmon but it is a rare catch. On the pictures, you will see halibut (the hanging ones) and cod mostly. We learned that in fact most fishermen are from abroad coming to spend one week on the island to go fishing night and day with fish clean up and a shower in between each trip. The local fishermen cannot do it with their 15 m boats any longer. Their small businesses on 15 m boat has been replaced by larger businesses on 40 m boats operated by larger companies. A sad reality. Our Airbnb host used to be a fisherman. He is not complaining about his new activity (in comparison to the previous one).
We connected with a fisherman from Germany who kindly gave us some cod. Did not even have to use my negotiating skills to get it! An act of pure kindness that we keep witnessing as we travel along. We should NOT forget that MOST PEOPLE on this planet are VERY KIND. Made a fish soup out a the cod and it was delicious.
Our host Roy (another kind fellow) had to go to Oslo to attend a Bruce Springsteen concert! He left us his house with 4 bedrooms.....another super Airbnb situation!
Back to our hikes. Definitively quite difficult due to the steepness and the muddy wet terrain around the lakes. Yesterday our feet were wet from the beginning to the end of the hike but we still had a great time....probably thanks to our wonderful Smartwool socks (I promise that I am not getting paid each time I mention the word Smartwool). The pictures will tell it all, just take a few minutes to look at them. Again sometimes we feel that the scenery is unreal, too beautiful to be true, are we dreaming it? We also reflect on the new concept (for us) of "permanent vacation". Is it real?
The first hike
Apres l'effort, le reconfort! Allez, mangeons the catch of the day...delicious halibut (fletan) :))
Cod drying - la morue seche
You may wonder, as we did, how the fish heads are being used. We suspected they may be grinded up and used as fertilizer. Nice concept...take from the ocean, give back to the earth. Well not quite. The body of the fish are dried and sent to Italy, Spain and Portugal to be used in the Bacalao dish, the heads go to Nigeria where they are boiled with peanuts and hot red pepper to make a special Nigerian dish. Hopefully Nigerians need to pay only for the transportation! Not sure how to feel about the fact
that they get only the heads.
Only one bakery in A, but a good one famous for its freshly baked buns, delicious for breakfast!
And now the fish...
The second hike
Thought that we could play "Where is Waldo" on each picture...just look for the straw hat!
Have you found it yet?
And on that one?
After a steep climb, we reached the top...and this is the view from up there (next 3 pictures)
No, don't tell me you found it again!
And to finish on a high note, a SELFIE!